Upon making my way into the terminal and finding baggage pickup, I was surprised and delighted to find that every sign and most advertisements were not merely in English, but also in Irish. Quickly I tried to use the simple phrases of introduction and common words to understand what they said, but within about 35 seconds I realized that there obviously was much more to learn of Gaeilge. This is one of my goals - sign reading in Irish. (That will be more difficult than it sounds, because pronunciation of such is a whole other application, but that's for later, I suppose.)
Now it was time to find the other students from the program, School for International Training, or S.I.T. for short, as well as the Academic Director. After some brief introductions, and seemingly compatible friendships began to emerge, we were taken away by way of Kevin the taxi driver to Knockree Youth Hostel south of Dublin along the Wicklow Way (County Wicklow). This was to be the site of our Orientation Week activities. Through the twisting, and winding, and constantly narrowing road, no overhanging tree or bush was safe from hitting into our sprinter vehicle. Finally, upon coming to a clearing, we saw the hostel for the first time, and were pleased. Let the adventures begin, and what wonderful adventures we would have with such a backdrop to our introduction to lovely Ireland. Through various sessions discussing host families, program rules, team-building exercises, and impromptu hikes through the paths that wind their way around the land surrounding the hostel, we all felt we had come upon a good understanding of the lay of the land, how to avoid bogs, and that one must firmly grasp a nettle plant to avoid its sting. Little did we realize that Thursday's short excursion to Glendalough would truly open our eyes to Ireland in a new way.
Our interpreter at the site was absolutely fantastic, and as we expected, he gave us the history of the ancient monastic city that lay in ruins before us. What we gained by the end of the experience, however, was much deeper in meaning. The interpreter called on us to recognize the energy and the natural beauty of Glendalough, and in a sense to join him on what was to become more of a spiritual pilgrimage rather than a day trip. The demographics, religiously speaking, of the group vary immensely, including Catholics, Protestants, agnostics, a Catholic raised by a Methodist preacher, and others. The amazing thing was that even in the discussion of St. Kevin and his closest friend, St. Ciernan, it wasn't the religious intonations that spoke to us, but the idea of the Celtic idea of the anamchara, or the "soul friend." Further still, it wasn't the love of a pagan belief that nearly brought us to tears in acknowledging the beauty of the valley of the two lakes (literal translation of gleann dá loch), or the landscape as being the Celtic Mother Earth, known better as Cathleen Ní Houlihan. The interpreter was right - the trip had become a pilgrimage. Each of us walked away with something more that afternoon than we had entered with, and though I'm not entirely sure what that "something" is, it most definitely brought us closer together.
The final day of Orientation was at the Glencree Center for Reconciliation, also in County Wicklow. This location, with a long history of having been a former British Army barracks to discourage rebellion in the mountain-rebels of the area, a school for German orphans post-WWII, and finally as a reconciliation center for those involved in the violence in Ireland. Folks who seek reconciliation and closure at the site include both victims and former combatants - families who had lost loved ones, loyalists, former IRA members, and various others seek peace at Glencree. It is striking to think of the hundreds of individuals, their stories, their fears and anxieties, hopes and losses, each specific to that individual's understanding of the world and the violence they had experienced. Each of these people, each of their stories, come to Glencree, and perhaps will sit in the same room with those who had long ago victimized the survivor. That alone is complicated to process... With that to ponder, we moved in with our host families that evening, and I must say that mine is just a lovely bunch of people with a fantastic sense of humor, absolute kindness, and the patience to introduce me to the Gaelic Athletic Association game rules. They truly are going to make the semester just lovely!
With the end of Orientation, however, came the weekend, and with that came the freedom to explore Dublin for the first time. As we were making our way down through the streets, a reenactment of the 1913 Dublin Lockout took shape out front of the GPO (the post office building typically associated with the events of the Easter Uprising/1916 Rebellion). As much as it was a nod to historical events, it was also a rally for the Socialist Workers Party of Ireland because, as the leaflet reads, "The Irish state and its allies in the corporate sector - remain as hostile to real trade unionism as they were in Larkin's day." Larkin refers to Jim Larkin, who in 1913 staged a lockout with the help of trade unionists of Dublin. I found it interesting that Irish President Michael Higgins was there to help in the commemoration - perhaps because the 1913 Lockout was something of a gesture against the state? But nonetheless, mine is merely to wonder why - and perhaps to attend the 4 September public meeting at Brannigans Pub to see what this is all about, really. It seems like an interesting (and common) use of history for a modern political message. More on that later, perhaps.
With that my first week in Dublin had largely ended (with a fantastic win from the Dublin GAA team GO DUBS ÁTH CLITHA!) and another just began. To see what this week brings, and the (mis)adventures that follow, be sure to check in soon! Until then, slán, agus go raibh maith agat!
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